Companies such as Safety Kleen have programs to help shops take care of their waste. Costs vary based on frequency of pick-ups and amount per pick-up. In the Midwest, most dealerships and chain body shops are using waterborne paints as a standard, matching what is happening on the coasts.
But some of the smaller, rural shops have a bit more flexibility for the time being. Material costs have risen significantly over the past decade. This is in part due to VOC regulations, and also in the production costs of the paints themselves. Pearls, flips, glass, flakes all have become more common but that also adds a significant cost to the paint. While waterborne paints are only slightly more expensive than solvent based, and waterborne paints tend to require a more controlled paint booth, driers, etc.
Manufacturers have already switched over to California-compliant products. This means that costs are starting to even out across the country. Are waterbornes better quality than solvents? That depends on who you ask and what type of paint job is required. I have used both. For simple 1 or 2 stage paints with minimal pearls I use waterborne paints.
Anything with flakes, heavy pearls, or multi-stage finishes I use solvent based paints. Some painters like waterbornes, but custom painters and airbrush artists tend to use more solvent based paints because of the quick dry times and color fastness how resilient they are to fading. Waterborne paints tend to be a bit thicker build so jobs that require a lot of taping might take more coats of clear to bury the lines.
Equipment is the same price regardless of where you are. Respirators, air dryers, etc all add up quickly. This is because most of the labor in a paint job is in the prep.
By pulling the trim, glass, weather strip, handles, etc. There are a lot of books and websites that walk through the process and the body shop you are talking it to will usually offer advice. Not many shops are cool with you bringing in your own paints as they can't be held liable for the finish. But, if you find a shop that allows you to supply materials, sites like www. From 50 feet away it might look fine, but up close there will be numerous telltale signs it was a surface respray, such as overspray on the rubber gaskets around the windows and on exterior trim, differences in the color of the doorjambs, and spots of overspray where the masking off wasn't perfect.
If you know this going into the process, okay. Just understand what you're paying for, and check to see if there's any kind of warranty on the work. The more you pay, the better the paint shop's preparation. Some shops simply won't do slapdash, budget work. Some will offer several levels of paint jobs. As you move up the price ladder, shops will remove more trim pieces and items like the head- and taillamps.
This ensures the pain will cover sharp bends in the sheetmetal and get into the crevices in the body where the older paint might have shown through. In more expensive paint jobs, the prep will likely also involve sanding off the older paint, fixing exterior damage, and even removing glass. For most of us, though, those are far better paint jobs than we'll ever need for our personal rides.
Keep the above five points in mind as you consider a new paint job, and you'll find it easier to match your needs to your budget.
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You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano. Any paint job needs the right surface texture to bond to, as paint requires a chemical adhesion to the lower layers. Think of it like trying to paint a sand pit by painting over rust or old, flaky paint and clear coat.
Once the bodywork is repaired and sealed it needs to be sanded through a range of different grits of sandpaper. The lower the number, the harsher the grain of the paper, so most shops will start at grit, stepping up to , then , and sometimes, even grit, before the car is ready to be painted.
Depending on the paint you've chosen, your bill for materials can be huge or unbelieveable. A clear-over-base, pearl or metallic-finish paint costs more than a simple solid colour, let alone a multi-stage paint like a candy which sometimes requires four-times as much time to paint properly.
There are also costs involved with preparing the car for each of these stages, but also costs to keep a paint and panel shop open.
From the power bill to the product needed to clean spray equipment, sandpaper, masking tape and plastic, and even respirator filters, there are many overheads to pay before you get to buying primers, or top- and clear-coats. When it comes to getting that flash, fresh new spray job there are plenty of hurdles and bulk work, but just think of how good it will look when the car is back together choo-chooing its heart out and looking awesome.
Money well-spent, we say!
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