How do draw reins work

The connecting line between poll and bars is between This creates a lever ratio of approximately to To simplify matters, calculating with yields 66 pounds of force lbf on each rein, which creates a pull of lbf on each bar of the mouth. How can this horse possibly allow its rider to sit comfortably with such tension?

And how can its back—and legs—remain healthy? A good rider must use his aids like a sharp knife—cautiously and gingerly! Draw-reins multiply the force effect the bit has on the bars, and fundamentally act to pull the head and neck in a backward direction.

This excerpt from Tug of War by Dr. Gerd Heuschmann is reprinted by permission from Trafalgar Square Books. Rebecca Didier has worked for Trafalgar Square Books, the leading publisher of equestrian books and videos, for 19 years, helping top riders, trainers, and equine experts from around the globe bring their books to print.

She currently serves as Managing Editor and Graphic Designer, with her role in the company spanning acquisitions, editorial, design, and marketing. Rebecca has designed more than book covers for the non-fiction, biography, memoir, and fiction genres, as well as packaging for videos. Rebecca Didier. May 18, Best Of.

Draw reins work with resistance. Going forward is your number one goal. There are solutions to consider before trying out a training gadget thanks for the phrase, Jim Wofford like draw reins.

With that in mind, here are some situations that might warrant the use of draw reins — of course, after you get the green light from your trainer!

Draw reins are an extra layer of control on horses who are prone to a playful frolic. Trail Breeds. Trail Gear. Trail Riding Destinations. Organized Trail Rides. Vacation Planning. Trail Safety. Trail Training. Horse Care. Barns and Fencing. Conformation Clinic. Hoof Care. Build Confidence. Horse Shopping. Rider Fitness. Stable Management. Western Horse Life. Horse Humor. Horses We'd Like to Own. Draw reins are available in cotton webbing, leather, or nylon. I recommend against nylon; it's slippery when wet, and it can "burn" your hands if your horse pulls.

I like webbing reins, particularly those with hand stops to help you place your hands consistently - so, for instance, your trainer can tell you to "put your hands on 'two. Draw reins and side reins also let your horse know he can lower his head under saddle. If he's unfamiliar with stretching down, draw reins let him feel contact as he stretches forward and down while you have your leg on and your fist closed around the reins.

But you're not "cranking" his head down; you're encouraging him to lower his neck and head, with his nose just a little ahead of the vertical, by guiding him to that position with your fingers softly closed on the draw reins. When his head is where you want it here's a moment where your trainer's input is valuable , your draw-rein contact needs to be giving, even loose.

Draw reins show your horse the way, but you don't want him to depend on them once he's there. Constantly riding with draw reins may teach him to hang or lean on them; when you take them off, he may be less on the bit than before because they were "holding" him there. He may even throw up his head or poke out his nose - the very things you were trying to teach him not to do. So keep draw rein sessions short: Warm him up in regular reins, ride five or ten minutes with draw reins, and then ask him to maintain the proper neck and head position with regular reins.

If he pokes his nose forward, close your hands and legs for one or two strides and see if he responds by coming back. If he doesn't reinforce the lesson with another five or ten minutes with draw reins, and then ask him to maintain the proper neck and head position with regular reins.

If he doesn't, reinforce the lesson with another five or ten minutes using draw reins. Finish your schooling session with a free rein to let him stretch his neck. Don't use draw reins every day. Use them periodically, as a reminder - for instance, at times when your horse is offering more resistance, or when you introduce a new or more difficult exercise.

Unlike draw reins which you use only when mounted , side reins are a training aid you can use with a horse under saddle or on the longe line , or for in-hand work. That said, I don't recommend riding with side reins unless your horse is on a longe line and under your trainer's control.

If he isn't and if he stumbles, spooks, or bucks, you or he could get a foot tangled in the side reins - which you can't easily release from the saddle.

The difficulty of lengthening or shortening the side reins while mounted is another reason they're best used while you're on the ground or being longed. And a horse who slips while in side reins won't be able to use his head and neck to regain his balance - so be sure the footing is level and dry if you're schooling in them.

Choose leather side reins with rubber donuts; they're no more expensive than nylon side reins many of which come with elastic inserts that eventually stretch as much as three or four insches - too much to be effective. Another plus for inexpensive leather: It breaks in an emergency; nylon doesn't.

You can use side reins with a saddle or a longeing surcingle. The reins loop around the girth or surcingle at one end position them as with draw reins and snap to the bit at the other.